I just recently became a new dad, which means that this blog, which really hasn’t gone anywhere yet, will now continue to evolve to include life with our little man.
Becoming a dad means a few things: surrendering sleep, any hopes for future wealth, and that I had to set out to find some denim that was the furthest thing from dad jeans. That pair of denim ended up being 3Sixteen’s SL-120x.
The Fabric: Shadow Selvedge
The 120x’s are 3Sixteen’s shadow selvedge denim: 14.5oz indigo warp, black weft woven in Japan and stitched together in NYC. They are a raw denim, meaning they are unwashed and will fade over time to create patterns unique to the wearer. For more info on what raw denim is all about check out my introductory post on my Naked and Famous jeans.
This 14.5oz denim is thicker than any other pants I’ve owned, however the extremely tight weave and soft hand means that these jeans feel more comfortable than they should at this weight. The colour is so dark at the outset that these could almost pass for black denim with just the hint of a navy sheen to them. My only complaint about the shadow selvedge fabric is that, due to the combination of softness and darkness, cat hair shows up on these like no other denim I’ve owned. I might end up with Schticky fades from carrying one around in my back pocket.
Tanner Goods makes the back patch in a thick cognac leather for these 3Sixteens. The weight and quality of the leather is a refreshing change from the paper weight patches on mainstream denim and the 3Sixteen branding is suitably subtle.
Little details like the double rear belt loops are evidence of the thought that 3Sixteen puts into their cuts. This loop layout means that you don’t have the weird slightly off-centre loop or diagonal loop down the middle to avoid the rear seam.
3Sixteen has got some flak in the past for having cavernous rear pockets. I believe they’ve just recently changed their pocket design as I personally think these rear pockets are perfectly sized for carrying my small Architect’s Wallet.
The Fit: Slim Straight
3Sixteen’s Shadow Selvedge comes in two cuts: the ST – a slim tapered leg that narrows fairly aggressively from the thigh down and the SL cut that I chose, which is a slim straight fit with a slight taper from knee to the leg opening.
Like everything I buy online, I poured over size charts and obsessed over forum posts to decide which fit to get. Starting out I was pretty set on getting the ST cut as I enjoy look of a slimmer tapered leg, like that of my Naked & Famous Weird Guys. In the end however, I chose the SL cut as they gave me the extra thigh room I needed while keeping the waist size down. I’m super pleased that I chose the SL’s, as the thighs were a pretty decent squeeze for the first few wears. I’m certain that I would have had to size up at least one to fit in the thighs of an ST.
Compared to my Weird Guys, the 3Sixteen SL’s fit me better in every way. I bought the same waist size, which was maybe ever so slightly tighter to begin with, but has stretched out perfectly after a week or so of wear.
The rise is higher by a much appreciated inch; this protects my dignity when I’m bending over, it helps shirts stay tucked in, and provides more room for the baby-makers so that one day our little man can have a sibling.
The thighs are very comparable to the Weird Guys and as I mentioned the thighs on the ST in the same waist would have been too tight. The leg opening is the one area where I wasn’t sure if I would prefer my Weird Guys over the 3Sixteen SLs as it seems the current trend is to more tapered legwear. However, the difference of a half inch is barely noticeable and the thickness of the shadow selvedge denim means that the cuffs aren’t loose and billowy by any means.
The Fades: sick ones to come
These only have about a month of wear, but they are already showing some fades in the crotch and whiskering in the thighs. The combs (creases behind the knee) have set in nicely and I expect to start seeing some colour there soon.
I’ll post some updates along the way once these have some wear. Expect all sorts of good whiskering, combing, and spit-up fades on my new anti dad-jeans.
I bought my 3Sixteen’s from Blue Owl and would highly recommend them as they offer free chain stitch hemming. Reddit’s /r/Rawdenim is starting a pretty cool fade contest with some great prizes so if you just picked up a pair of 120xs you should get on that before March 19th. You can also check out 3Sixteen’s site for more information on their fine denim goods.